Herbal Cosmetics

Turmeric, neem, aloe, besan, multani mitti, sandalwood - India's cosmetic tradition is old, largely gentle, and much of it is defensible.

Where tradition holds up

Aloe vera soothes and hydrates, with reasonable evidence for minor burns. Neem has genuine antibacterial and antifungal activity. Turmeric is anti-inflammatory, though it stains and needs care in the quantities used. Multani mitti absorbs oil, which is why it suits oily skin and dries out anyone else. Coconut oil is a genuinely effective moisturiser, and there is decent evidence it reduces protein loss from hair.

Two rules

Patch test everything on the inner forearm for a day or two before it goes near your face. Herbal does not mean non-reactive - plant allergies are common, and a reaction on the arm is a nuisance where the same reaction on the face is a fortnight of regret.

And buy from makers who publish their full ingredients. "Herbal" is a marketing word in India with no regulatory force, and adulteration with steroids and skin-lightening agents is a documented and continuing problem.

A cream that works suspiciously fast usually contains something the label does not mention.

Where it stops

Herbal cosmetics are for cosmetic concerns. Persistent skin disease - eczema, psoriasis, severe acne, fungal infection - has proper treatment, and delaying it in favour of home remedies usually means treating something worse later.